Volume 4
Holiday Edition 2024
THE HOLIDAY TABLE
Cooking is an amalgamation of art, science, and craft. At times, we call it alchemy and it is most certainly an act of service. It’s frequently a performance where skill, technique, ingredients, and creativity result in something nourishing and at its best, delicious. Within this act, we are driven primarily by the most basic of things, necessity, but also by expression, sharing, respec,t and love. This is when food becomes transformative and memorable. From the most simply humble meal to an elaborate feast, a dish (or many) made with thought, care and devotion is a special mood-altering gift.
As we approach the season of celebratory togetherness and giving, we thought a recipe-heavy edition of Digest would be appropriate for this festive but often busy time of year. Within these few pages, we have shared some of our favorite late fall into winter recipe ideas for the upcoming social explosion of the holidays. We hope that you can find inspiration for your entertaining needs whether they be cocktail parties, fireside chats, potluck buffets, or an elegant banquet. We believe that each of these dishes would pair well with one another, so we encourage you to mix and match when planning your meals. It’s also possible to add one alongside a traditional family recipe or to make a meal entirely of appetizers and sides (yes please!). You can even combine one of the mains with a salad for a hearty lunch or brunch.
Additionally, we’ve included a few notes on some great beverage options that you might be inclined to feature during this celebratory season. We’ve built on the legacy of our love for the Quince (see Digest, Volume 2) to create a delicious aperitif and cocktail. We’ve also taken the time to provide a brief ode to our most beloved sparkling treat, Champagne. Along the way, we’ll visit an off the beaten path region within the appellation and offer some insights into a few of our favorite bottles for the Holidays.
No matter the occasion, we hope these recipes and recommendations motivate and guide you to share the gift of something exceptional with the special people in your life. Happy cooking and imbibing dear friends!
-Emily Crawford Dann & Matt Dann
SNACKS
As your guests arrive, welcoming them with a few snacks to nosh on while sipping a festive beverage is the perfect introduction to a jovial gathering. One or all of the following spreads would serve as great options along with a bowl of toasted and spiced nuts, marinated olives and sliced cured meats for your guests to enjoy as the merriment unfolds.
Chicken Liver Paté
serves 6 as an appetizer
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/3 cup madeira or sherry or brandy
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 pound fresh chicken livers, trimmed
10 tablespoons unsalted room temperature butter,
cut into cubes2 medium shallots, peeled & finely chopped
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
3 tablespoons of cream
kosher salt to taste
In a small pot warm the golden raisins in whichever alcohol you decide to use. Once warm let the raisins steep in the alcohol for 30 minutes. Please note that alcohol is flammable so be mindful when heating.
In a stainless steel pan, heat the vegetable oil until almost smoking. Season the chicken livers with salt and carefully add the chicken livers in a single layer in the pan (you may have to do this in batches depending on the size of your pan). Sear each liver until starting to caramelize, then add 3 tablespoons of the butter. Let the butter melt and start to brown, then flip each liver to shortly cook on the on the other side. Remove quickly from the heat and transfer to a bowl or plate.
In the same pan, (all of the delicious livery bits still in there) sauté the shallots in 2 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. Once they begin to slightly brown, add the thyme and the golden raisins and the alcohol that they were soaking in. Let this reduce a bit then
remove from the heat and scrape all of what is in the pan to the plate that the livers are on. Let this mixture cool for 30 minutes until it is room temperature.In a food processor, blend all the cooked livers, shallots, etc., not leaving out any flavorful bits. Add the remaining butter and cream, blend until smooth. Check the seasoning and add more salt if necessary. Set the pate into a glass jar, bowl, or ramekin and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes before serving. Covered with plastic wrap it will hold in the fridge for up to a week.
We suggest serving with mustard, fruit compotes/preserves (such as fig or cherry) and pickles of myriad varieties and fresh or toasted baguette or crackers, of course.
Beet & Walnut Muhammara
makes 3 cups
Traditionally made with roasted sweet peppers and smokey chilies, we like to make a winter version of this Middle-Eastern classic with beets in their place. We suggest serving muhammara with warm pita, crackers, vegetable crudite, roasted potatoes, or as an accompaniment to the Pomegranate Molasses Braised Duck Legs in the Mains section.
1 pound red beets (cooked and peeled of their skin and tops)
8 oz walnuts (lightly toasted)
2 garlic cloves
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon cumin seed (toasted and ground)
1 tablespoon coriander seed (toasted and ground)
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
(juice of approximately one lemon)1/4 cup water
2 teaspoons kosher salt
In a food processor blend the beets, walnuts and garlic. You will need to scrape the sides a few times to encourage them to blend into a paste.
Add the pomegranate molasses, cumin, coriander, Aleppo, salt and lemon juice and continue to blend.
With the machine running, pour the water in a steady stream through the opening at the top to help to fully emulsify all the ingredients into a thick and smooth puree.
Taste and adjust the seasoning by adding salt and/or lemon juice if necessary.
Smoked Fish Rillettes
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup shallots, finely minced
2 cups (10ish oz) smoked salmon, trout or black cod (all skin and any pin bones removed)
2 cups labneh or cream cheese (room temperature)
3 tablespoons chives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon, finely chopped
3 tablespoons dill, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
Sweat the shallots in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until translucent.
In a mixing bowl, flake the smoked fish into small pieces. Add all the ingredients and mix until well combined.
Serve with crackers, toasted bread, or vegetable crudite. All varieties of pickled vegetable are welcome additions to top it off.
SALADS
When people ask me what my specialty is I almost always tell them salads. Being able to highlight the season’s bounty by combining cooked and raw vegetables, fruits, herbs, nuts, cheeses and sometimes meats or seafood has become my most authentic form of expression when communicating through food. The seasons provide us with harmonious matches when it comes to combining ingredients. Whether it’s the bright citrus fruits and briny celery of the winter months, crisp cucumbers and juicy nectarines in the height of summer or the bitter chicories and the sweet squash of autumn, nature is always our most astute guide. While we try to work within the local ebb and flow of our Pacific Northwest seasons, we
aren’t opposed to borrowing an ingredient or two from our southern neighbors during the cold and dark winter months. We also try to preserve a little during the most plentiful times of year by dehydrating, freezing, pickling and preserving many fruits and vegetables to be enjoyed when our local fields aren’t productive.
When considering the composition of a salad, I am always thinking about balancing flavors and textures to achieve a well-rounded and delicious combination. The addition of nuts and herbs to our salads at Corson has become a hard to quit habit of mine but one that always seems to round out each dish. Another area where we achieve this balance is when deciding how to dress the salad. We keep our pantry stocked with many different oils, vinegars and syrups which allow us to create dressings that help to highlight and brighten the ingredients in our salads. I’m also always thinking about the composition of the actual ingredients. Whether it’s a delicate baby lettuce or a hearty brassica, each ingredient wants to be combined with items that won’t disguise their inherent traits.
Here we have provided you with some of our favorite fall and winter salad combinations. All of these could be served as a lovely opening salvo to any meal be it lunch, brunch or dinner. They can also all be served as side dishes to accompany a main course, or become the main course themselves simply by adding a protein. As an example, add a poached egg to the Dandelion, Persimmon & Celeriac Salad with Blue Cheese. Add Bacon or Dungeness crab to the Citrus & Avocado Salad, or include a Pomegranate Molasses Braised Duck Leg to the Radicchio, Beet & Delicata Squash Salad. Whatever and
however the spirit moves you, we know these salads will heighten any of your celebratory meals this season and beyond.
A Salad of Dandelion, Persimmon, Celeriac, Pecans, Blue Cheese & Bacon
serves 6 as a first course or shared side dish
1 softball-sized celeriac
2 bunches dandelion greens
3 fuyu persimmons
1 cup crumbled blue cheese, such as Rogue River or Cascade Creamery
¾ cup cooked bacon lardons
1 cup pecans, toasted and crushed
Cut the outer skin from the celeriac by first cutting the base and top off creating two flat surfaces. In a downward cutting motion remove the skin rotating around the root until you’re left with a beautiful white sphere. Slice into thin (1/4”) cross sections always making sure you have a flat surface face down on your cutting board making it more stable for cutting. Then cut those cross sections into matchstick pieces.
If you aren’t planning to use the celeriac matchsticks right away, store them in cold water to keep them from oxidizing. Make sure you strain them and dry them well before incorporating into the salad.After being washed and dried, cut the dandelion leaves into 3 inch pieces. Set in a large mixing bowl.
Slice the persimmons into thin rounds using your knife or a mandolin slicer.
Combine the celeriac, persimmon slices, pecans and bacon in the bowl with the dandelion. Add ½ cup of the honey thyme vinaigrette and gently toss until everything is well dressed. Taste and adjust seasoning by adding kosher salt or more dressing.
Platter on a large serving dish or individual plates and crumble the blue cheese on top.
Honey-Thyme Vinaigrette
Makes 1 cup
2 tablespoons minced shallots
½ cup Extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
¼ cup honey
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
Salt & Black Pepper
Sweat the shallots in a ¼ cup of the olive oil until translucent. Turn off the heat and add the fresh thyme, honey, vinegar, the rest of the olive oil, a good pinch of salt and a few cracks of black pepper. Mix until combined and store in a container with a tight-fitting lid if not using immediately. This will keep in the fridge for a week.
Radicchio, Beets & Delicata Squash
with Dates, Almonds & Pecorino
Serves 8 as a first course
1 delicata squash, halved, seeded, sliced into half moons
¼ cup olive oil
2 heads Chioggia, castelfranco or treviso radicchio
3 small red beets, cooked, peeled and cut into wedges
3 small golden beets, cooked, peeled and cut into wedges
3 small Chioggia beets, cooked, peeled and cut into wedges
1 cup almonds, toasted and crushed
12 dates (Medjool, Bahari or Halawi varieties), pitted and sliced into coins
Kosher salt
Black pepper
4 oz aged pecorino, grated or curled with a peeler
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Cut the delicata squash in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and cut into 1/4“ half-moons. Toss in the ¼ cup of olive oil with a couple pinches of kosher salt and spread on a sheet tray to roast in the oven for 15 minutes until starting to caramelize and you can easily pierce with the tip of a paring knife.
Cut the radicchio heads into quarters from the top to the core. Once quartered remove the core, pull apart the wedges separating the layers into leaves. Fill a large bowl with cold water and soak the radicchio leaves for 5 minutes. The soaking will soften the bitterness as well as crisp up the leaves. Once soaked, strain and spin in a salad spinner to dry the leaves.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the beets, dates, delicata squash and almonds with ¼ cup date syrup vinaigrette and a good pinch of kosher salt and mix well. Add the radicchio leaves, another ¼ cup of the vinaigrette and a pinch of kosher salt, gently toss everything together. Check for seasoning and adjust if necessary, be it salt or more dressing or both.
Platter the salad on your favorite dish or plate individually topping with the grated or curled pieces of aged pecorino.
Date Syrup Vinaigrette
Makes 1 cup
½ cup Extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Shallot, minced
4 tablespoons Date syrup
1/3 cup Sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher Salt
2 teaspoons cracked black pepper
1. In a sauté pan sweat the shallots in ¼ cup of the olive oil until translucent. Turn off the heat and add the date syrup into the pan to soften and combine with the oil. Add the vinegar, remaining olive oil, salt and black pepper.
2. Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid if not using immediately. It will last in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Citrus, Avocado & Belgian Endive Salad with or without Dungeness Crab
Serves 8 as a first course or 4 as a hearty main course
4 Belgian endive
2 ripe but still a bit firm avocado
2 cara cara oranges, rinds removed and cut into thin rounds
2 oro blanco or cocktail grapefruit, rind removed and cut into segments
2 blood orange, rind removed and cut into thin rounds
½ cup pistachios, toasted and crushed
Flaky salt
1 pound picked Dungeness crab meat
Cut the base of the endives off allowing the leaves to peel away into individual leaves (the outer leaves being bigger and gradually getting smaller towards the core). We keep the leaves whole but they can also be sliced if that is your preference. Set aside.
Cut the avocados in half and remove the pits. With the skin still on, cut the halves in half and then in half again leaving you with 4 wedges per half. Remove the skin from the wedges simply by peeling off from the narrow tip downward. Set aside.
On a platter or individual plates, arrange a combination of the citrus fruits. Then pepper in some of the endive leaves and avocado wedges. Season the avocado wedges with flaky salt and then drizzle everything with some of the dressing and a couple pinches of the pistachios. Repeat this layering until all the ingredients are on the platter (or equally distributed on individual plates). Top with the Dungeness crab if using. Make sure it too is equally distributed on the platter or plates and seasoned with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Citrus Maple Vinaigrette
Makes 1 cup
1 cup orange juice, to be reduced by half
2 tablespoons Shallot
¼ cup sherry vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Shallot
3 tablespoons maple syrup
Salt and black Pepper
Pour the orange juice into a small stainless-steel pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and allow the juice to reduce by half.
Add the shallots, sherry vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, maple syrup, a couple pinches of kosher salt, and a few cracks of black pepper to the juice. Mix well and allow to cool before using on the salad.
Store in a container with a tight-fitting lid if not using immediately. It will keep in the fridge for a week.
MAINS
We love to cook slow and low at The Corson Building. Braising or slow-roasting meats and vegetables allow an otherwise texturally tough ingredient to become tender and supple. Although braising requires some planning ahead, it is also a great way to prepare a meal when you’re entertaining. Since it must be done in advance, the main dish of your meal will already be complete when guests arrive allowing you to actually enjoy the company of your friends and loved ones.
Additionally, the inherent comfort of slowly cooked dishes goes hand in hand with the colder months of the year when
we are craving coziness and warmth.
Pomegranate Molasses Braised Duck Legs
Serves 8
8 duck legs
¼ cup olive oil
12 sprigs thyme
½ onion
6 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon whole coriander
seeds, toasted1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds, toasted
½ stick cinnamon
½ cup pomegranate molasses
3 cups chicken stock or water
Salt and black pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Generously season the duck legs with kosher salt and black pepper.
In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over
medium-high heat until the oil is glossy. Carefully place the duck legs in the oil skin side down and agitate the pan so the duck slips around a bit keeping it from
sticking. Sear until golden brown. Flip and cook for another two minutes on the flesh side.While the duck is searing, ready your braising pan by spreading the fresh thyme on the bottom of the pan. The pan should be large enough to accommodate the duck legs in a snug but single layer. Once the duck is done searing, add to the braising pan on top of the fresh herbs.
In the same pan the duck was seared in, sauté the onion and garlic cloves. Cook until starting to caramelize then add spices and pomegranate molasses. After a few
seconds, add the stock or water and let come to a simmer. Pour the hot liquid over the duck legs in the braising pan. Cover with a tight-fitting lid or foil. Place in the oven and cook for 1 ½-2 hour or until duck is soft and tender.Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a bit. Once the duck is a comfortable temperature to touch, remove the legs from the braising liquid and set aside. Ready a vessel big enough to receive the liquid and strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer. Discard the bits that have been strained out. Allow the liquid to cool a bit and let the fat rise to the top and then skim the fat off with a ladle or spoon and discard. Poor the liquid back over the duck legs in the container you plan to reheat them in or in a storage container until you plan to serve them.
Simply reheat in a 350 degree oven, uncovered (to crisp up the duck skin) until hot, approximately 15 minutes.
Slow Roasted Beef Short Ribs
with Fennel Seed & Citrus Zest
Serves 6-8
5 pounds boneless beef short ribs
½ cup olive oil
12 sprigs fresh thyme
12 sprigs fresh oregano
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
8 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
2 tablespoons fennel seeds, toasted and lightly pounded or ground
Zest of 1 orange
1 teaspoon chili flakes
1 400g can crushed tomatoes
1 cup red wine
4 cups chicken stock or water
Salt and black pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Generously season the short ribs with kosher salt and black pepper. In a heavy-bottom pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it is shimmering. Carefully place the short ribs in the oil and sear until caramelized, about 2-3 minutes per side.
While the beef is searing, ready your roasting pan by spreading all of the fresh herbs on the bottom of the pan. The pan should be large enough to accommodate the beef in a snug but single layer. Once the beef is done searing, add to the roasting pan on top of the fresh herbs.
In the same pan the beef was seared in you will now sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until beginning to brown. Once the browning has happened, add the fennel seeds, orange zest and chili flakes. Stir to combine and then add the crushed tomatoes and red wine making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan releasing any of the delicious bits that may have stuck to the pan after searing the short ribs. Let this mixture come to a simmer. Once simmering, add a couple pinches of salt and the stock or water and let come to a simmer again. Once this simmers, pour over the beef in the roasting pan.
Cover with either a tight-fitting lid or foil and place in the oven to slowly roast for 2 hours.
After 2 hours, remove the lid and check for tenderness. The short ribs should be tender but not quite falling apart. Let roast uncovered for another 30 minutes to allow the meat to become nicely caramelized and even more tender.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a bit. Once the meat is a comfortable temperature to touch, remove the short ribs from the roasting liquid and set aside. Ready a vessel big enough to receive the liquid and strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer. Discard the bits that have been strained out. Allow the liquid to cool a bit and let the fat rise to the top and then skim the fat off with a ladle or spoon and discard. Poor the liquid back over the short ribs in the container you plan to reheat them in or in a storage container until you plan to serve them.
Simply reheat in a 350 degree oven until hot,
approximately 15 minutes.
Serve with roasted potatoes, over polenta, with noodles or a root vegetable puree. We also highly recommend the addition of a super bright and herbaceous green sauce or gremolata.
SIDES
The most common way we serve food when we are entertaining is family-style creating a fun and interactive dining experience for everyone. Often, we serve all the savory food at once, allowing guests the choice to eat what and how they want. It gives them control of their own portion size, garnishes, and how they combine flavors and textures as well.
Although the main dish is usually the star of the table, it is the side dishes that bring it all together. We always incorporate an abundance of vegetables, grains and legumes into side dishes making them my favorite part of most meals. In fact, a collection of these dishes often makes up a meal in our house. At times it may seem that the main dish is seemingly incomplete but really, it’s just waiting for the side dishes to join it on the plate.
Here we have shared three recipes. Two of which we enjoy this time of year as side dishes, as well as one of our favorite winter soups. Indeed, we like to fill a festive table with several selections for sharing but we also enjoy a slightly more elevated meal of individually plated items from time to time. We happen to think this celeriac soup is a fantastic way to start a special late fall or winter meal.
Squash Caponata
Makes 5 cups
2 pounds Red Kuri or Kabocha-style Squash, peeled, seeds removed and cut into 1” chunks
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 each whole, canned Roma tomatoes
1 medium red onion, cut into a small dice
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup sultanas
1 cup capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced
½ cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
Preheat the oven to 400 dgrees
Toss the squash pieces in ¼ cup of olive oil and a couple pinches of salt, spread on a sheet tray. Crush the canned roma tomatoes in your hands over the tray of squash and combine. Roast the tomatoey squash in the oven for 20ish minutes until the squash is starting to caramelize and is soft.
While the squash is roasting, saute the onion and garlic in the remaining ½ cup of olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Season with salt. Once it starts to caramelize add the capers, sultanas and rosemary and cook for a couple minutes. Add the red wine vinegar and cook until the vinegar is absorbed. Turn off the heat.
Once the squash is done roasting, add to the onion and caper mixture, mix well.
The caponata is best after it sits and the flavors mingle for a bit… at least a couple of hours but overnight would be best. In that case, refrigerate in a covered container. Make sure to pull it out an hour before serving so it can come to room temperature.
Caramelized Cabbage & Parsnips
with Smoked Paprika-Caraway Brown Butter
Serves 6 as a side dish
4 parsnips, peeled
1 large head savoy or green cabbage
½-1 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 cup + 2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
(pimenton de la vera)1 tablespoon caraway seeds, toasted & lightly pounded
½ cup fresh dill sprigs
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Cut the peeled parsnips into quarters lengthwise. Toss them in ¼ cup of olive oil and spread on a sheet tray. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes until starting to brown and are easily pierced with a knife.
To make the brown butter, place 1 cup of butter in a small pot over medium heat. The butter will melt and become frothy within a couple of minutes. Make sure to stir and scrape the bottom as this happens (which is the beginning of the milk solids browning). Be patient while keeping a watchful eye.
Once the milk solids caramelize into a nice golden brown, remove from the heat. Allow the butter to cool slightly and then add the smoked paprika, caraway and a pinch of salt.
Cut the cabbage head into 8 wedges keeping the core attached so the wedges don’t fall apart. Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a large cast iron pan and sear the wedges over medium-high heat in batches making sure you don’t crowd the pan. Once the side of the cabbage that is facing down in the pan is nice and brown, add a tablespoon of butter. Allow it to caramelize even more in the butter. Flip to cook the other side, lowering the heat a bit so the butter doesn’t burn. Add 2 tablespoons of sherry vinegar to the pan. Once the vinegar has evaporated remove the wedges and set aside. Repeat this process with the remaining cabbage wedges.
Once the cabbage and parsnips are cooked, arrange them on a platter and drizzle the brown butter on top. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs.
Celeriac Soup
with Hazelnut-Celery Salsa Verde
Makes 2 quarts
2 pounds celeriac, peeled and cut into 1” chunks
1 leek, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
8 cups water
½ cup crème fraiche
In a large pot, sweat the leeks in the olive oil until
translucent. Mix in the celeriac pieces and season with a few pinches of salt. Cover with 8 cups of cold water. Bring to a boil. Once boiling lower to a simmer and let cook until the celeriac is very tender (about 20-30 minutes).Allow the soup to cool slightly and then blend in a blender until silky smooth.
Whisk in the crème fraiche. Taste the soup and add additional salt if desired. If the soup is too thick it can be loosened with water.
Hazelnut and Celery Salsa Verde
Makes 2 cups
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted and crushed
1 rib celery, finely diced
½ cup parsley (or celery leaves), finely minced
1 tablespoon shallot, finely minced
1 garlic glove
The zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Mix the hazelnuts, celery, parsley and shallot in a small bowl. With a micro plane, grate the garlic clove into the mixture. Add the lemon juice, zest, Aleppo and olive oil. Season with salt.
DESSERT
Considering I recently asked for another piece of grilled bread to go with the remaining chicken liver mousse on the table in place of dessert, one could rightfully assume I’m not a huge sweets person. I realize I am in the minority with this opinion (enter my entire family and most of my friends). Because of that, I have spent several years developing a reliable and diverse repertoire of desserts for the restaurant and home. The following two recipes are delicious ways to incorporate a little spice into the closing act of your meal. Sometimes just a few cookies are all you need but considering it’s the holidays, you’ll likely be craving more. In that case, this Ginger Molasses Cake with some lightly whipped cream and possibly a few roasted or poached pears or apples would seal the deal.
Ginger Molasses Cake
Makes 1, 10” cake
4 oz fresh ginger, grated
1 cup molasses
1 cup sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
2 ½ cup AP flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground clove
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup water
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 eggs
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and line 1, 10” spring form cake pan or a bundt pan (if using a bundt pan grease and dust with flour).
In a large mixing bowl, combine the grated ginger,
molasses, sugar and oil.In a separate bowl, sift the flour and spices.
In a small pot, boil the water. Once boiling, turn off heat and stir in the baking soda.
Add the water to the molasses mixture. Whisk in the dry ingredients to the wet. Once combined, whisk in the eggs.
Pour into prepared cake pan. Bake for 1 hour or until a toothpick comes out clean.
Pecan Orange & Coriander Seed Shortbread
Makes 24ish cookies
1 pound butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 ½ cups pecans, toasted and crushed
Zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 cups AP flour
In the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the butter until soft. Add the sugar and salt and continue to mix until the texture is fluffy. Scrape down the bowl at least once along the way.
Add the pecans, orange zest, and coriander seeds. Mix until combined.
Add the flour in two additions, mixing on low until just combined. Turn out onto the countertop, form a uniform ball and press into a thick square shape. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until completely chilled – at least a couple of hours. You can also freeze the dough at this point for later use.
Heat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the center. Roll the dough 3/4-inch thick. Use a cookie cutter or knife to cut as many cookies as possible. Gather any scraps, if you’re using cutters, form a ball, re-roll, and cut out the remaining cookies. If you’re making larger square cookies, use a fork or skewer to puncture dots across the tops of the cookies. Arrange an inch apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Return the cookies to the refrigerator, on the pan, for another 15-30 minutes helping to reduce spread.
Bake for 20 minutes, rotate the pan, and bake for another 10-15 minutes or until the cookies are golden brown where they touch the pan, and lightly golden on top.
Allow to cool on a wire rack.
BEVERAGE
Quince Syrup
For those of you who follow Digest, you’ll remember Emily’s wonderful article in Volume 2 is devoted to the humble and intriguing quince. Those of us working on the Beverage side of the equation always welcome the arrival or quince season with open arms. Emily and our culinary crew keep us well stocked with quince syrup and shrub for various exquisite drink options. These beverages tend to highlight the sweet but distinctly unctuous characteristic of the fruit. We’ve highlighted a few below that are particular favorites. As a refresher, we’ve included a quick recap of the Quince syrup recipe and the way we employ it in our beverage program here at Corson.
8 cups water
3 cups organic sugar or honey
2 fresh bay leaves (optional)
1 vanilla bean, split
1 teaspoon kosher salt
6 quince
In a large pot that can accommodate all the quince in a single layer, add the water, sugar/honey, bay, vanilla bean and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until sugar/honey is dissolved. Turn off heat and allow to cool to body temperature.
While the syrup is cooling, start to prep the quince. Working carefully, peel, quarter and cut out the seeds. Add the fruit to the syrup. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Once simmering, turn off the heat and allow the quince to cool fully emersed in the syrup. Store in the refrigerator. It will keep in syrup for several days. Remove the poached quince from the liquid and set aside for later use. For greater clarity, you can strain the quince through a sieve.
Quince is quite firm and can be a little tricky to cut so be extra careful when preparing it to poach.
Quince Kir
Serving a Kir as an aperitif to start the Prix Fixe meal has been a tradition from early days of Corson. This delicious and refreshing low ABV treat is a great way to kick of a celebratory gathering!
1oz. Quince Syrup
Cava
Lemon Zest
Add 1oz. quince syrup to a champagne flute. Top off with a refreshing sparkling wine like Cava. Peel a lemon zest and add to the drink for a tart contrast to the sweet fruit.
The Little Quince
We love the contrast in this drink of the smoke of the mezcal and Urfa Biber, the richness of the tequila, the savory/sweet of the quince syrup and the brightness of the citrus. It’s a particularly sightly drink when presented in a unique Old Fashioned glass.
½ Oz. Citrus Mix (see below)
1 Oz. Quince Syrup
½ Oz. Mezcal
1 Oz. Tequila Reposado
Urfa Biber Chili
Kosher Salt
Citrus Mix
Juice 2 Limes & 2 Lemons
Rim Concoction
Combine 1 Tablespoon
Combine
½ Oz. Citrus
1 Oz. Quince Syrup
½ Oz. Mezcal
1 Oz. Tequila Reposado
with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously.
Salt the rim with the Urfa Biber mix and serve over ice in a Old Fashioned glass.
More than Just A Glass of Bubbles
It would be foolhardy for us to tackle the magical and mysterious world of Champagne in a space as truncated as this article. That being said, we thought that this special Holiday edition of Digest would be a great opportunity to say a few words about one of our favorite regions and unique drinking experiences. While we love most sparkling wines—Cava, Prosecco, Franciacorta, hell, even a chunky and funky Pet Nat makes its way into our glass—for us, nothing matches the incredibly distinct, thought-provoking and satisfying sensation of enjoying a glass of Champagne. From the bracing acidity and minerality of a Brut Nature or Extra Brut Blanc de Blanc (made from 100% Chardonnay) to the rich and textured profile of an outstanding aged bottle, the great wines of the Champagne region are so much more than just a celebratory glass of bubbles.
With such a wide range of Champagne-related topics available for discussion, we decided to touch on a few distinct topics to hone our focus. First, we wanted to take our readers on a journey along the back roads of the region to an off-the-beaten-path corner of Champagne known as the Côte des Bar or the Aube. Located nearly two hours south of Reims and Epernay (home to most of the famous producers in the region), the Côte des Bar is a place that is distinct and fiercely independent from the power centers of the North. The Aube lies just outside of the charming city of Troyes and is quite close to the Burgundian outpost of Chablis. In fact, the Aube shares the same underlying limestone terroir as Chablis and this unique geology brings a depth and character to the wines that is quite different from the chalky acidity of many wines of the north. Additionally, the viticultural focus of the Aube are the varietals Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with lesser-known constituents such as Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris making frequent appearances within many different cuvees. The wines of the Aube have a reputation of carrying some heft and weight and the combination of varietal and terroir are almost certainly responsible for this distinct profile.
Tucked away in the heart of the Aube along the banks of a meandering river is the quaint and understated village of Celles-Sur-Ource. When I first visited this wonderful place, I was just getting my feet wet in the industry and had little idea of just how special it was. After a day spent with the charming Cédric Bouchard, proprietor and winemaker of Roses de Jeanne, I knew that I would be hooked on the wines of this tiny town. Their versatility and ability to pair so well with food made them an incredible match for the cuisine we were serving at Sitka and Spruce, my restaurant home at the time. Little did I know, Cédric was on his way to being an international superstar and his wines are now virtually impossible to find. Luckily enough, during my next trip to the village, I would have the pleasure of meeting the bookish and engaging Aurélien Gerbais, the visionary winemaker at Champagne Pierre Gerbais. Aurélien was incredibly generous with his time, taking us on a deep dive into the family’s cellar, walking us through the vines and even giving us some great restaurant recommendations for our upcoming visit to Paris. The passion that he demonstrated and the commitment to producing wines of incredible character taught me another lesson about the Aube: it was the red-hot beating heart of Champagne’s creativity and innovation. How lucky are we to have the chance to drink these wines in our beautiful city halfway around the world?!?!
Our visit to the Aube serves as a launchpad for the second portion of this Volume’s wine writing: our list of great Holiday Champagnes. We’ve chosen a few from our list that we think you’ll love and we hope these can serve as a wonderful introduction—or a deeper dive—into the special traits of this incredible region:
Pierre Gerbais, “Grains de Celles”, Côte des Bar NV ($55 Retail)
The ‘Grains de Celles’ cuvée is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Blanc and 25% Chardonnay from a selection of the estate’s greatest sites which are mostly planted on the same Kimmeridgian soils of marl and limestone as their Chablisian cousins to the South. The wine explodes with bright white flower and acidity!
R. Dumont & Fils, “Tradition”, Côte des Bar NV ($44 Retail)
This is the flagship cuvée from another of the Aube’s understated stars. The house has been in existence for over 200 years and in recent times has doubled down on its commitment to regenerative farming practices and non-interventionist winemaking. This wine is composed of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay from chalky soils and has a roundness and accessibility that makes it a natural pairing for cheeses, poultry and fish.
Larmandier-Bernier, “Latitude” 1er Cru, Côte des Blancs NV ($62 Retail)
For nearly 30 years, Pierre Larmandier has been a champion of biodynamic viticulture and a producer of wines that are laser focused and profound. This Blanc des Blancs (100% Chardonnay) is sourced from vineyards close to the village of Vertus and has great structure and depth. It’s a real gastronomy wine and one that will pair with a wide range of holiday treats, from country ham to shrimp cocktail!
Louis Roederer, Brut “Collection 242”, Montagne de Reims NV ($72 Retail)
Slowly and steadily, Louis Roederer has risen to the top of the list of great Champagne Houses. As one of the largest vineyard owners and devotees to sustainable viticultural practices, Roederer has proved that they are so much more than just Cristal. The Collection 242 represents the pinnacle of an accessible blended champagne and is composed of 36% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay, and 22% Meunier from 8 different sites. It’s opulent but focused and incredibly drinkable as an aperitif or throughout the meal.